Monday, June 11, 2012

The 10 Rules of "Popping"

"Popping" zits is never a good idea. Let me totally clear about that before we go any further. Because your fingernails and skin contain bacteria, when you smash them together with fairly strong force, you're actually pushing bacteria into the pores around the pore that you may be hoping to relieve. And, picking is the number one way to cause scarring. However, sometimes there is just that ONE-LITTLE-ZIT that you absolutely must get before you leave for work/walk out the door/let your husband leave to play golf. I'm guilty of it, too!

Zits happen, no matter how careful you are or how strict you are with your skin care routine. "Zits", another term for whiteheads, happen when a pore is clogged and pus fills within the pore. When the pore is closed at the top, the pus does not reach air, and therefore does not become oxidized like it's cousin the blackhead, it will remain white, and typically grow to be larger and, sometimes, more painful. Gross, I know, so we'll move along.

But when you find yourself in a "must get it now jam" what should you do? Well, if you absolutely must pop, here are the rules.

1. Get a facial, and ask for "extractions." 

I know, not the most time friendly answer here. But like many other things, popping pimples truly is better left up to the pros. Professional aestheticians have the right tools and products to help ease pimples from your pores in both a gentle and sanitary manner. They also have the right products to help soothe your skin afterwords. Not to mention, they are using gloves, a strong light to help them see, and likely a sterile needle to help relieve one pore at a time. DO NOT try using a needle at home. Seriously. Bad idea.

Extractions aren't the most relaxing part of a facial, but they are a great way to help skin that is broken out or inflamed. Some spas even let you book an appointment for just extractions, without the facial part. I have done this several times, and just having extractions done can take much less time and cost way less money. Some places only charge about $10 or $15 dollars, and require little advance appointment time, because they only take about 10-15 minutes.

2. Don't be Pringles- once you pop, stop. 


If you're like me, you see one spot on your nose, lean in to see it more closely in the mirror, and suddenly start noticing other little issues. You started by just picking one little pimple, and suddenly you've spent 45 minutes tearing at your face, much to the chagrin of your husband/little brother/older sister or whoever else is trying to get into the bathroom. So, unless red splotchy is the look you are going for, when you see one pimple, just pop that one. Don't keep going. If a blemish is too small to see while you are standing normally at your bathroom mirror, guess what? No one else will see it! Honestly. It will be much less noticeable than if you try to "get it" before it's ready to come out, and it's likely to go away on it's own with good, regular care.

3. Only pop a pimple on a clean face. 

Because your face, hands, and fingernails are covered in bacteria, it's better if you wash all the surfaces involved before you start trying to pop anything. And, often times, a good exfoliating scrub will actually work to remove the culprit. Use some warm water (not scalding) and washcloth, and see if you can't simply remove the pimple with a little gentle, washcloth scrubbing. This can get rid of the zit, and mean a much quicker healing time, and lower the risk of scarring.

4. Wash again when you're done. 

Once you've popped your one zit, give your face a second, gentle wash with a light cleanser, and apply a topical treatment from there, either prescription or something like Mario Badescu's Anti-Acne Serum.

5. Pop at night. 

Because our skin heals more rapidly as we sleep, and because popping will cause you to be blotchy, it's best to pop only at night, when you can then apply some healing product and hit the hay. One of my favorites- Mario Badescu's Drying Lotion. If you put this on a blemish at night, it will work wonders by morning. Double bonus- having your imperfection covered up while you watch some late night TV or hang around the house in your jammies makes you less likely to continue to pick at it. Of course, your husband/roommate/little brother might laugh at you, but heck, it's worth it for clear skin the next morning!

6. Use your knuckles. 

If a pimple is so stubborn that it cannot be removed with your knuckles, you are best to leave it alone! Your knuckles have less bacteria on them and are less sharp than your fingernails, helping to keep scarring to a minimum. So, instead of going after a zit with your fingers, use your knuckles!

7. Know what you're after. 

Whiteheads in your t-zone (the t-shaped space of your forehead, nose, and chin), especially in the creases of your nose, are often easier to pop, and leave less redness, than pimples on your cheeks. Only pop whiteheads that are raised, non-painful, and that do not require much work to remove. Cystic acne, or deep painful, sore pimples, SHOULD NEVER be popped. Nor should you try to pop blackheads, as they may pop, but they can leave you blotchy. Seek the help of a professional if you are hoping to clear up cystic acne, and instead of trying to pop it, just use good skin care and cover up until you can see a facialist.

8. Love the steam. 

I often suggest steam as a free, easy, at home way to clear up your skin. Why? Because it works, and it costs $0. Wash your face while you put a pot of water on to gently boil on your stove top. Never steam a face with make up or that has not been freshly washed. Then, once steam is being let off by the boiling water, gently and carefully lean over and let the steam hit your face. Don't get too close- you'll burn yourself. Just get close enough to the steam to feel a gentle waft of warmth. A few minutes of steam, and your pores will be nice and opened up, meaning a more stubborn pore may be less stubborn when you are done!

9. Mask it.

Using a mask once a week can help you not only prevent pimples, it can help dry up the ones you have, without the use of dirty, damaging fingers. By using a mask, like Mario Badescu's Drying Mask or Flower and Tonic Mask, you'll help clear your skin without scarring or leaving any redness. I suggest using a mask at least once, if not twice, a week to help prevent breakouts, but it's also a great tool to use as a spot treatment on specific areas that need attention.

10. Find a good concealer.

Sometimes, you just need to wear a little concealer until the blemish goes away. Pimples happen to everyone, and it's best to cover them up and leave them alone. Find a great concealer, like Bobbi Brown's, and look flawless until a blemish heals, or until you can get in to see your favorite facialist.

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